Sulphur dioxide

Nicaragua is a country full of inland lakes and active volcanoes. As we descended into land over the northern part of the country on Monday evening, we could see lava flows in volcanoes north of Managua. Here in Granada, the extinct presence of Mombacho looms large over the city. Nearby, is the larger town of Masaya, whose volcano of the same name, is very much active. Like many volcanoes, it consists of a number of bowls, some completely overgrown with vegetation and seemingly dormant, and at least one large one which spews out a heady mix of nasty chemicals. We were up there on Volcan Masaya on Wednesday twilight and were treated to a magnificent view stretching north over Managua to the volcanoes of northern Nicaragua and to the south over Granada and Lake Nicaragua. We visited caves in the dark swarming with bats and ran up to the precipitate edge of the active bowl in search of glowing lava only to be forced back almost immediately by sulphurous fumes that caused prolonged coughing.
Yesterday was a lot less strenuous as we potted around the 365 isletas on Lake Nicaragua just off Granada. Wealthy foreigners and Nicaraguans (including Presidents present and past) own a number of  individual islands of up to an acre or two in size, and have built holiday houses of varying splendour. One boasts 8 bedrooms, an infinity pool and a helipad and another a tennis court. Some are more modest and a couple are even for sale. You too can own your own island paradise for c.$300,000. The setting is idyllic, apart from the tourist boats that come to gawk.
More and more North Americans and Europeans come to Nicaragua either to retire (perhaps risky with the state of the health system) or more commonly overwinter away from the frost belt. We have met people who summer in Cape Cod and winter in Granada  (life could be a lot worse!). The Nicaraguans are very gentle people and for a country of such modest means, there is precious little hassle or begging. Like Cuba, you would not come for the food. However, the landscapes, lakes, colonial towns and perfect weather in the winter, along with the genuinely friendly people, means it is a place we would be happy to revisit.